In preparation for shooting the gunnite on the roof we needed to put up some forms that would keep the concrete from just falling thru. The radial vaults have simple curvature, so we could build the forms from boards pressed up against the steel arches. Making that happen took some compromises in the plan. As usual, challenges arose. Enjoy.
The Video
The Chimney
In the video I forgot to include any footage of the chimney going in. Basically, I built this form so the shotcrete would create a good base for my chimney on the vault. My one regret was that I didn’t think to close the top of the form in order to prevent the gunnite from going inside the chimney hole.
The Gallery
A picture is worth a thousand words and here a bunch of pictures
We started with full panels and planned to but joint them and attach batons over the ends. But it definitely didn’t work. So I just sat and thought about it for a while.
My first panel attempt.
The vault is radial, so simple curvature and a panel should have fit smooth. But I forgot that the outer edge is inset 2 inches from the bar, which means I needed to notch the panel so it would work out.
By the time we finished off the first vault, we had the plan mostly worked out.
Just a pic of progress
Sherri’s brother Steve showed up for a tour.
The second layer tucked in easily. The hardboard fit above the previous hardboard and the wood baton fit under the previous hardboard so it could be screwed into the steel arch. Then additional lath screws would be added from the outside to attach the hardboard to the batons.
Sherri working until past dark…
Here you can see that the playroom vaults don’t have the end caps on yet. I can’t add the panels until after the end caps go on.
Here you can see the insulated south wall. We plan to shoot the whole structure (roof and walls at once).
Sherri put the lath vaults together. Here she is still adding the the rebar chairs and screen. The rebar chairs keep the rebar fully embedded in the concrete. The screen keeps the wet gunite from blowing thru the lath. It isn’t strong enough to actually hold the concrete, the lath does that.
David at the end of the day…
Our friends (Ryan and Aaron) came over to help for a few hours. We needed to put the end caps on the arches, so we started with that.
A pigeon made a nest and we carefully worked around it.
Michael hanging out with me while I was putting the forms up on the last standard sized vault.
Sherri working hard
Here is the pigeon after the vault forms are in place.
Sherri working on the second lath vault.
A standard end of the day pic.
Just a close up pic on a standard vault.
Pigeons make crappy nests. They are very sloppy and the eggs or chicks often fall out. This pigeon had 3 eggs initially. After the second one fell out, I decided to put some tape up to look after the last one.
I double sided the tape so it wouldn’t be sticky against the birds.
My father packing up the tools at the end of a long day.
We usually recycle bill board vinyls to help with waterproofing. They always have an image, this one made me laugh.
The smurf tube (ENT) electrical conduit will allow us to run wires up thru the vaults after the concrete is in place.
This smaller vault had too tight of a radius for the hard board, so we went with lath. I was able to put hardboard on the sides.
Inside of the dining room vaults.
Here is an electrical box mounted on a lath vault.
Why 4 tubes? Well, 2 are for the light and they go to 3 way switches on either side of the room.
The other two are to run power from another switch to another light. We go thru the box because building code limits the number of turns in the pipe between two boxes.
I wouldn’t have been able to add these boxes after vaults were on both sides, so I would add them between adding the vaults. So one vault, then the next electrical box, then the vault on the back side…
After the concrete is in place, I can drill thru the box so wires can access both sides.
Most vaults have one ceiling fixture with a 3 way switch on either side of the room.
We have had a lot of electrical inspections… And we passed this one too.
The hardboard would expand when wet and the stress would cause the screws to pop.
These screws are pretty thick (#14), but the boards were still popping the heads off.
I sited the wood stove template (according to code) on the floor and then setup my laser to pin point where the hole in the ceiling should be.
We built this form as a base for the chimney.
Once we started covering with plastic we would need to pull back the plastic everytime we worked on it.
We often worked past sunset.
A large bird tore this rabbit up and dropped the pieces in the house…
Covering the vaults with plastic was necessary for keeping the water off the vault.
There was just enough decent weather left in the season to prep and shotcrete the walls around the perimeter of the central circle. We had to start with the formwork, and since these walls had simple curvature (rather than compound curvature), we decided to use OSB board screwed to vertical steel studs. Of course, rebar was added in and tied. I’ll get into details and lessons learned later in this post… And there is always a gallery of pictures at the end, but first, the timelapse video.
The Video
Extra bits
Steel Studs
These MarinoWare steel studs I have been experimenting with are a bit of a mixed success. They are great for holding the formwork, rebar, electrical, etc. And I like to think that they provide some reinforcement for the concrete. On the negative side, the shotcrete crew were not always able to properly encase them and possible voids in the walls along these studs probably reduced the wall strength and provided a path for water to channel. I wouldn’t call them a total failure, but I have decided not to use them in this same way for the central tower. Instead, I will brace that formwork from the outside. I will continue to use these studs for the South wall because the design there has these outside the concrete, supporting the rigid insulation formwork.
Screwing into Steel Studs
Pre-drilling would just take too long and it would probably drive you crazy trying to keep the boards aligned to get the screws thru the pre-drilled holes. Self-tapping drill point screws are what you need. They should be long enough to get thru the form materials (3/8th inch OSB in my case) and still bite in nicely to the steel. In places where you put an extra layer of OSB (such as to thicken the joints), you will need an extra 3/8ths of length. Also, to save money, you want to use the shortest and smallest screws that will work. Finally, the key thing is the head… I recommend the Hex-Washer-Head because it will be held securely by your driver without any slippage or cam outs. Do not buy Phillips head screws, you will seriously regret it.
Personally, I ended up mostly using TEKs #10 x 1 in. Zinc Plated Hex-Washer-Head Self Tapping Drill Point Screws that cost about 4 cents each. If you can get them in bulk, you can probably reduce the price to half that.
Plumb and Braced
For some reason, the camera kept moving on to the next area before we would complete the important job of plumbing and bracing each section of wall. However, that step was important and worth a small section here. The walls had some natural stability because of the curvature, but we still needed to brace them against the force and vibration of the shotcrete and they were not always naturally plumb. On dirt, we could just brace with a 2×2 or 2×4, screwed to a block on the wall and then screwed to a stake. However, for most of this job, we had to brace on the concrete deck and didn’t want to attach the bracing to the deck and risk damaging our radiant tubing… The solution was to place a board on the deck, screw the diagonal brace to that, and also screw a horizontal brace and tie it back into the wall. This worked pretty well.
In one location, the wall was out of plumb and took some serious pulling to try and force it plumb. Some combination of the boards, studs, and rebar was fighting against us. I ended up just using a strap and a come-along to pull it. Part of that strap is still embedded in the concrete wall, but at least it is plumb.
Welding Rebar
I get a lot of negative comments from people saying that it is “against code” to weld rebar. In reality, the building code has about 85 pages devoted to welding rebar. The code talks about what types of Rebar you can weld (mine has a little “w” on it to indicate that it is weldable), diameters (most welding rules don’t kick in until #7), what types of welds you can do (butt joints are not acceptable), pre-heating, exceptions based on engineering approval, etc. I was going to get into it a bit here, but it is probably better to just suggest you read up on it yourself.
While I agree that the heat treatment that comes from welding does influence the ductility and other material properties of the steel, in certain situations (some of my situations), it does make things much better. I know what I am doing, everything is inspected, no need to worry about it.
The Gallery
Here is where we put some of the pics we took during this period…
from time to time, I’ll just take a photo of my screen so I can have the measurements handy in my phone… Some times it is faster than trying to transfer a proper screen shot…
The Hex Head screws are much much better
For us, this build is pretty focused work. But while we are out there, the kids will often find time to play or read a book in some odd place.
Working on the side wall in the guest room. We had this one shot from the kitchen across the basement stairs.
Me setting up the camera in the kitchen…
I think I may have kept too many pics of David setting up the camera…
Sherri gets goofy some times…
Joe working on the dining room wall.
David Setting up the camera. He likes this job.
Here my father is working on the wood forms and my mother is tying rebar… Probably not the retirement they expected.
Sliding the rebar into the short wall section.
For this little side wall, we put in all the rebar pieces and then cut them down to size.
David setting up the camera for a shot
David was climbing around on the tower steel and took this interesting pic of Hunter walking thru the site.
Another shot of the playroom apse before it got started. You can see all the steel arches leaning against the rigid insulation in the background.
I separate out these jobs, but they often overlap. On this day, I was working (For ANSYS inc) from the site because the stucco guys were working on the garage. In the evening, I probably switched to welding the playroom apse or something like that.
I originally set everything up around this middle post, then I welded the outer edges in place.
To form the apse, I had to weld the thicker rolled steel arches to the thinner galvanized steel studs… It doesn’t have to hold forever, just long enough to be encased in concrete. It took a little practice to be able to weld the different materials reliably. I did little patches like this ever few inches along each edge where they met.
This looks like it was from my timelapse, but the rest of the video was lost… It happens sometimes.
This is one of those pics that happens when your 10 year old is just walking around with a camera.
Welding the rebar
apse steel ready
Apse steel from above
Outside of the guest-room wall. We shot the walls from the outside to try and avoid messing up the deck.
The inside of the guest room forms.
We try to avoid it, but occationally we are all working within a very narrow distance of eachother…
For some reason, Hunter likes to pose for the timelapse… Just while he is walking by in the middle of the shoot. The easter egg photos are mine now.
Friends playing while their parents helped out…
The north side, ready to shotcrete.
This gap between the back of the kitchen wall and the Quonset hut will be filled with a lot of earth.
This pic is trying to show that I cut away the fox blocks and drilled the horizontal rebar into that wall to tie everything together structurally.
The connection between the guest room wall and the mudroom…
I get a lot of negative comments from people saying that it is “against code” to weld rebar. In reality, the building code has about 85 pages devoted to welding rebar. The code talks about what types of Rebar you can weld (mine has a little “w” on it to indicate that it is weldable), diameters (most welding rules don’t kick in until #7), what types of welds you can do (butt joints are not acceptable), pre-heating, exceptions based on engineering approval, etc. I was going to get into it a bit here, but it is probably better to just suggest you read up on it yourself.
